Yes, the easy way is to add an adaptor to the existing "UHF" stock connector, however, the best way is to replace it with a real connector such as the type "N" female. If you choose the lazy way to use the old UHF connector/TR relay, then cut the Rx side of the coax, drill out the rivets, open it up (discard the coil), remove the reeds and install a jumper wire on the Tx side. Drill out the rivet holes for use of #2 hardware to reassemble the relay housing and re install in the radio.

As a side note, if you choose not to cut a flat surface of the radio for proper mounting of the Rx connector you'll need to modify it another way. For the Rx port, dremmel out the hole to fit a BNC connector. This takes a lot of practice and an hour of precision grinding. You need to grind back inside to provide a surface for the (modified) nut to tighten down the (modified) bulk-head BNC double female connector. Another option is to use a BNC chassis type connector, with the 4 mounting holes.

The next "better" way is to splice the Tx cable. Normally the Tx RF cable is too short to reach the new N connector. Solder on some 3/8" copper tubing (as the outside conductor), then some small brass tubing for the inner. The short distance need should not affect the impedance to a point of power (transfer) loss. This procedure is still in the research as of 11-18-06 and may not be explored further.

Replace the Tx cable with a longer one. You'll need around 9" to work with. Either purchase some teflon 50 ohm cable or rob the Rx cable from another cannibalized (parts) radio. Considerable research was performed to obtain price and availability from several vendors, including:

There was considerable research performed on the proper selections. The Mitrek (stock) radio uses coax similar to RG-188/RG-316 for the transmitter. It's your choice to use the stock type coax or go with something else. Below is the work area laid out with some coax samples, such as RG-188, RG-313, RG-405, and some miscellaneous sizes from Motorola radios of various sizes. Most of them were the TFE (teflon) type, which makes easy and secure soldering.

For the transmitter connector the two main choices were:

There are many types of coax and their sizes available. There's a list available if you wish to compare and get familiar with them. Bring up the list ? YES !

A few different sizes of coax were settled on for research; that being the "RG-58" TFE equivalent, which was a mid-size used in various Motorola radios. It's size is similar to RG-58, which makes working with easy. Another was RG-316, which was not so easy. Here's how it goes:

For the RG-58 size, strip back and put on the center pin to be soldered, while holding in a (mini) vise. If you have excessive solder "bulging" around the pin, you need to clean it off. Wick works good for this. That way it won't bind when pushing this pin into the connector's housing.

Be careful on this next step. If you are sure the length is correct push the (soldered) pin into the connector and it will "snap" into place, guarantees correct depth of the pin for the mating (male) connector. This is a handy feature, however is pretty much a "one-way" action, being that you cannot pull it back out, if you made a mistake, without the danger of damaging the assembly. Next, clean cut the shield , then solder it with a large tip iron. This will make a great, shielded termination.

Here's the end product. The crimp (ring) will be discarded, from the factory packaging. In this case the connector was purchased from Mouser as mentioned in the previous section.

For the RG-316 size, do the same as above; just that things are much smaller and have to be performed under a magnifying glass. The center is usually stranded wire. This little pin plugs into the back of the (larger) "N" center pin, inside the connector. One advantage of this (smaller) version is the center pin does not "snap" into place, so you could pull it back out in the event you needed to check for proper length. The disadvantage is there's not "locking" support of the pin. Plugging and plugging could weaken the center coax conductor over time.

Solder the little pin and clean off any excessive solder on the edges. Then cut the extra braid off and solder it, as before in the RG-58 example. Again, this will make a great, shielded termination.

Here's the end product. In this case a BNC was left on for testing, then will be cut off for radio installation. Again, the crimp (ring) will be discarded, from the factory packaging, along with a tiny (white) TFE "ring". There's an arrow to point this out, if you view the large version of the picture. (right image) Also, this case, the connector was purchased from Mouser, as you can see in the right picture. The author choose to use the (larger) RG-58 type of cable and connector for future installations.

After you've finished the coax and connector assembly you are ready to install it in the radio. Start with removing the old cable. It runs from the output filter. Remember to unsolder the lead coming through the bottom of the PA board before pulling the filter board out, or you will bend that last flat capacitor.

One easy way is to gently pull on the filter while heating the run on the board, then suck out the solder on that hole as shown in the left picture. When re installing a nice solder connection will carry the RF down through the chassis.

As discussed above, if you choose larger, RG/58 type coax, the metal "channel" the old cable in the stock radio will be need to be enlarged, a little. This can be done with a dremmel tool and a round bit.

In 2009 a third size was tried and tested on serial #1 using the RG-405 cable. This is interesting to the fact it's almost "micro-LDF" (hardline). The center is solid, very rigid and rather strong for it's tiny size. For Beldon version, it's a AWG 24, silver-coated copper covered steel. The shield is a solid, corrugated type with the outside jacket is PVC, black and rather thick. The rated O.D. is 3.23 mm (.127"). Another version comes without the PVC jacket, therefore the OD will be different. Electrically it's the same. Because of this last feature the (PVC coated) cable will not fit in the casting grove going into the low pass filter, below the PA section. Therefore, you'll need to strip away the outside (black) layer. This will, in effect, make it the non-jacketed version with a O.D. of 2.21 mm (.087"). 2.5 mm is about the maximum allowed to fit in that grove without widening it, as mentioned previously. Doing this will allow the cable to fit very nice in the groove as shown in the right picture. At this time it's unknown if the bare shield in contact with the chassis (at this point and location) will cause duplex noise. The connector installation is similar to the RG-188. The larger N connector type was used successfully.

The center pin solders fine although will be a little loose because of the small size of the center wire. Because the center is solid (and steel) it's easy to push into the connector's housing, until it "clicks" into place. Remember to clean excess solder off the pin so it slides in easily. That was the one drawback of the RG-316 discussed earlier. Then solder the shield side. It's different with this cable type. Instead of laying the coax braid around the connectors shield housing, you will need to flow some solder from the connector to touch the surface of the cable shield. Heat and plate the connector first, then finish the bond by flowing some solder onto the cable's shield to make the connection. Be a little careful not to over heat this tiny cable as there is little room for error.

Slight improved documentation below is a re-cap:

From stock cut a 270mm length. This will be the actual total length of the RG-405 coax from filter to connector termination points. In case you are new at this try a 280mm length to play with. For the filter end cut back the brad 7mm, then cut back the shield to reveal 2mm, then strip the center back 5mm. With the filter board cleaned up of access solder around the edges, solder the center conductor on the tab of the last capacitor, then the shield into the casting of the filter as shown. Feed the coax through the chassis and secure the filter board. Be extremely careful to observe the other end of the filter board's lead runs up, into the PA board eyelet. This may take several attempts. Secure the filter board with the supplied screws and star washers, being careful not to over tighten; about 10 pounds/inch torque should do it. Next slip 200mm of 1/8" heat shrink with a 2:1 ratio. Place the filter end of the shrink inside the chassis area, but not around the bend that goes into the filter board because it's a tight fit, otherwise. Secure the shrink with a heat gun. For the connector end, strip the shield 10 from this end, then strip back 6mm of the center conductor. This can be 5mm if you wish as well. solder the pin first with enough solder to flow some inside the pin, but don't over do it. Scrap away the excess solder on the pin so it will slide into the connector with little resistance. When you find a "click" point the pin should be properly spaced for this connector type, keeping guesswork out of it. Next, flow some solder on the furrel of the connector, let it cool for a few seconds, then apply solder to slightly flow onto the coax's shield. You should flow all the way around this point for a good electrical connection and keep foreign material out as well. Secure the connector with the supplied washer and nut with about 30 pounds/inch torque.

Start with prepping the cable for the filter board end.

Confirmation to the above dimension given:

Strap away excess solder that might slopped over on the lip of the casting to ensure a good fit into the radio chassis. When you get the other end of the board's lead into the PA deck remember to solder it.

The transmitter port connector comes in a package from Mouser Electronics. You only need the housing, pin, washer and nut from this kit.

For the connector end start by shrinking 180mm of 1/8" tubing as a substitute to the black PVC version coax. Then prepare this end. Cut the shielding jacket. Make a notch around the outside being careful not to cut into the dielectric. A "sawing" motion with a razer works pretty well.

When you have enough notched bend the outside; it should break so you can pull it off.

Strip the center conductor.

The pin should slip right on.

Solder the pin, using the little hole to flow it in. Lay a tool across the line to help hold it while doing this.

Scrap away excess solder that did not go in the hole. This will insure a proper fit inside the connector's housing. Then push it in; you should feel a click when locked into position. This will be a non-reversible action. Solder the shield to the connector's housing and mount the connector. Use only about 10 pounds/inch or what feels appropriate.

Tx - - Transmitter side:
The last three trials were done with RG-188, RG-316 and RG-405 cable:

This is the end of the connector details. Refer to the first document for the radio project.