More details on mounting the radio to the panel...by Karl Shoemaker


The front Panel

The radio needs to be mounted inside a cabinet (at the site) in such a way to provide easy access for testing, troubleshooting and alignment. After some research it was determined horizontal is the better way. Therefore, the edge of the radio needs to mount on a standard 19" rack panel. For the radio a # 2 panel is used,
which is the 3 1/2" height. For this task, the trick is to line up the radio as not to cause space problems with other equipment directly above or below it. You can purchase these panels from Bud Radio or a distributor as shown in the picture. Another option is to make them yourself, as the Author choose on a limited source at a local metal shop. The bottom the fourth panel down is an example of the finished panel, power coated in white. The bottom panel is the "template" to make more it the future. Light colors aid in dark cabinets, to see things.

 

 

 

 

The two pictures are the new layout as of 2004. As of 2008 an improved layout is a few lines below. This first image shows the hole locations for most of the controls. They would be (and sizes):

  • The 9 panel-to-radio mounting holes are 3/16" for 10-32 screw and nut fasteners. All but two screws are 1/2" in lenght. The far right two are 3/4".
  • The 5 toggle switch holes are 1/4".
  • The 1 push button switch hole is a 9/32".
  • The 6 LEDs are 13/64" (for link versions the 7th blue one is not used).
  • The 2 pots are 1/4".
  • The 1 pin/tip jack is 1/4".
  • The 2 holes for TB-1 are 9/64", then are 8-32 tapped. (Use the upper set on the block.) Cut the screws down so they are flush with the rear side of the panel.
  • The 1 wire hole is 1/2".
  • The 1 mic jack is 5/8".

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The second image is the locations of the panel-to-radio mounting holes. These images will help you with the measurement. For a real big version, click on either picture. Warning! They are large (1-10 MB) if you have a slow connection. They show where to drill the holes.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    As of 2008 an improved layout of the front panel was created. This one shows all the panel and all the holes needed, plus a handy "scale" on the top and left side in metric. It also contains the TB-1 functional list and the SRG standard of wire colors for functions. The most significant change from the previous version (VHFClub packet project) is the increase of terminal positions. Because this version was designed to support not only SRG project but other Group's projects being flexible and "universal" it was determined a few more functions on the block were needed, plus room for expansion at a later time. Therefore the TB-1 is now a 20 position block, with a few more functions and an extra ground connection or two, etc.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Notice one is in metric while the other in SAE, because of different sources/shops perform the work. You'll have to convert one to the other, depending on your preference. While the Author prefers the metric system this document is sensitive to other's needs. Therefore, this handy chart has the numbers filled in so you can figure out either way. It's easiest to use a drill press. Mark/start the holes with a much smaller bit, 1/16" for example, with a hand drill. Then switch to the press with the final 3/16" size.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    From here you can line up the radio to drill into it's chassis. First, find a "plate" you can lay on the work bench to lay the radio on, as to raise it enough so the panel is level and straight and the holes on the panel line up in the proper areas of the radio's chassis you'll be drilling into. Around the house is something that might work; some plastic sheets of some kind such as some wood, CDs or plastic laying around. The author settled on a piece of 3/8" particle board. Particle board is ideal since it's precisely flattened and easy to cut and write on.

     



     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The best way to get the panel lined up properly with the radio is by starting with the upper right hole, at the heat sink of the radio. The left image shows lining up the bolt/nut that will go into the back heat sink fin. Be sure to leave enough room for the nut to lay fairly flat, but not too close to the edge to compromise the strength of the mount. Use that small bit, using the panel's hole as a guide. Lay the radio (on the support plate) and the panel on an even surface then mark the first hole to be drilled. The Author used the 1/16" bit for marking and actual starting the hole. Then move bit sizes progressively up the final 3/16" for the mounting bolt. The middle image is showing this about half way done. Enough though the right image shows drilling horizontally the best way is downward pressure. After this first mounting hole is completed the bolt should now slip through the panel and sink and can be loosely secured with a nut.

     



     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    When successful this is what the first nut mounted will look like. You'll be drilling other holes, so don't bother making the screw real tight at this point. While laying the panel and radio still on the surface do 1 or 2 more holes on the left side to stabilize the mount. After tightening the bolts you can take this assembly to the drill press for easier finish work. Be careful not to break through to the inside of the radio and hit a component. This is a typical problem when drilling by hand.

     



     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    You could used some clamps to hold the panel in place, while drilling the holes. Use some card board to protect the front panel's paint. Another option is with a drill press, like the Author did. That way you can press on the hole being drilled, but not "slip" too far into the chassis to hit a component.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    After all the holes are done it's best to de-mount the radio and clean all the burrs out with a larger drill bit, on both sides of the panel.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    After drilling the other holes (not shown) you can re-mount the radio. On the left is production type of setup for several radios. The right image shows what the mounted radio should look like, less the holes for the controls. One item not mentioned before; if you use the volume and squelch pots per the part list, you'll need to cut the shaft down to 10 mm in length before installing the knobs.

     

     

    Most of the controls are self-supporting with their respective hardware. For example the pots and switch have sufficient holding power with the nuts that come with them. For a few components it's suggested to add a little glue, such as silicone "RTV" type glue for the meter, LEDs and TB-1's backside.

     

     

     

     

     

    This shows an example of not only the wiring installed to TB-1 but a complete radio in packet service for the VHF Club. This is version "B" which does not have the AGC meter option, has the shorter TB-1 and 8-pin mike jack, etc. This concludes the panel mount section. Refer to the main article for wiring and other parts of the project.



     

     

     

     

     

     

     


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