It's best to have an "example" unit already made up, so you can see all that needs to be done. Take your time and you'll "duplicate" a nice unit or units. In this "batch" the Author built two more additional units, to finish the power supply project. The #4 panels were commercially made, and obtained from surplus left overs, therefore, would need some painting, etc. The box was custom made from a metal shop (as donation) for a size of 17" wide, 10" deep and 5" high from mild steel. The comers were "sealed up" for strength, by lightly welding the edges, then grinding the rough areas. First mount the panel on the front of the box. Then with the "example" (completed) supply, all the holes (and each of their sizes) can be transferred, mark, drilled and cleaned up for each unit on the assembly line as shown.
With that thought the long processes of drilling begins. Some of the components (strip, LEDs, etc.) will determine some of the hole sizes.
The longest part of this job is the many holes for the fan and air intake. Without a template you can get them in some order, however being they are not on the front this is not real important-will be up to your standards of appearance. Once the front panel holes are done, remove it.
Then clean (rim out) the holes. This can be done with a larger bit
The (side) connector for the AC input will need to be drilled with a 3/4", then cut out with a recep saw, then filed for a clean hole for the connector.
With the holes drilled on the front, rear, left and right sides, you will be ready to install the components and wire them up.
For the total holes, in the front there will be three 1/2" holes (for fuses). Eleven 3/16" holes, plus holes for the terminal strips that you choose to use. Tip: drill over sized holes for the wires behind the terminal strip to insure the wires clear the holes without abrasion. This should add up to 32 holes total for the front. Two 1/8" in the rear.
Three on the left side (less the rectangle hole) and nine hole on the right, less the numerous ones for the fan air flow. That will depend on the density you choose for them. Make note the location on the power plug was later changed and moved towards the rear.
Twenty on the bottom, less the air flow holes, which, again will depend on the density you choose for them. The picture on the right shows where you'll need to mask off so the painting keeps it clean. This is for the heat sinking for the diodes and a few ground connections. For the latter, you might hit them with a wire brush to ensure a good electrical connection. This can be done before or after painting.
For more details on each section and components, click HERE .
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