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Can install of Neil Pipes

This can was specified (as understood) for the 2003 1M 800 Arctic Cat sled. Around $270 (OTD) it arrived with only minor damage, due to the "goons" at UPS. Just a quick adjustment with a wrench restored; since it was the outer lip of the exit point, it was real easy. With it came one (stainless steel) plate for as a template and resting point of the can, and a stock (for King Cat) outside exhaust hood, and some rivets and washes to fasten them to the belly pan.

The package arrived in good shape and came with the can, a stainless steel plate, a stock King cat hood and some rivets and washers. The bottom cover plate (old stock hole) was forgotten to be sent. No instructions, so one might be saying "now what do I do with this?".








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First thing was to make the proper opening location.As you can see there were some concerns about the proper fit. Laying the new can over the old (stock) showed a length problem.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Neil was insistent just to hold the plate up the belly pan, tucking it around the edge, where that indentation is, as shown on the picture. The larger (clickable) version will better show this. Make a pen mark around the hole Neil cut out in the plate.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just for giggle you can hold the plate on the side to see how it's going to turn out but be sure to use the outside edges, since they position the plate properly, due to the additional edges and bends of the belly. Next, drill a series of holes around your mark.






 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You can continued "joining" the holes, using the drill as a "router", being careful not to put excessive pressure on the bit. Of course, if you have a real router, you can do that as well. Figure in the diameter of the bit when doing this. It was also determined there was not quite enough clearance over the top of the can's out port, therefore another 1/8" or so was cut around the top of the hole for both the belly material and the plate provided.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, feel and determine the best location for the hood. While holding the can in the belly's hole position the hood appropriately and mark a couple of holes to be drilled. It may be easier to start with a top hole; that way you can rivet the first hood tab, so you can later hold the plate for the similar task.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next a bead of (high temp) RTV will keep the snow from leaking in around the edges. Later, you can seal between the actual can, and plate, if you wish. Using a clamp will help out with the lower holes. Drilling into stainless steel is tough.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Your install, so far should look like this, with both the plate and hood mounted. As you can see some of the holes/rivets hold both, while others only hold either the plate or hood.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a tip: to push in the rivets for a close "grabbing" action, use a small socket on the inside part; pushing with your fingers might hurt.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, once the can is placed in position it was obvious there where some spacing issues. First, as suspected the can is too long. Second, the spring tabs did not align up properly. To compensate for the first issue, the connection (pipe and can) point was raised some.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This created another issuer where the donut seal almost did not make the seal. Another issue is the (stock) pipe location now was "pushed" a little, so it rubbed against the coolant reservoir.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tab alignment issue was dealt with by bending the forward tab back to line up with the can's tab. Also the rear spring was too long; it did not do much to hold. The spring was cut down to shorten, so it contributed with the holding power.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last issue was the holding mount on the can did not align properly with the stock's mount. A custom double "L" bracket was fabricated to deal with this issue as well. Later it was determined a little higher angle (1/2" rise) was needed to clear the coolant bottle, so the can's bracket was placed on top of the special bracket. For a "washer" spacer (because of the "U" shape of the can's bracket) a large nut was used. Pictures were not taken to reflect this, at this time. Just keep it to remember. One other item (forgot to take a picture) was a plate was needed to seal up the bottom (stock) hole. Again some RTV was beaded around the opening to keep snow out.








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the finished product/install. (needed to wipe off the extra RVT) Overall it came together fairly well. Once fired up, the sound was great. Idling was pretty much "stock" but you could tell it was a can with a little snappy crackles during the idle. When you hit the throttle wide open it had a nice "Raaaap" to it. Quite a bit louder than the (heavy) stock can, but still okay for most mountain riding. You might want to tread lightly in the parking lots and trails of sensitive and criticizing people that like to complain. HAPPY RIDING !








 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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