The 25G tower needs proper guying if over 40 feet high. Here's a neat bracket for mounting the guy wires.
These "rough" pictures show the early stages of the bracket.
For the other type using the flat steel, a cut on each side was made to make bending easier. Then the tower was laid on a level surface. Each side of the bracket was correctly bent, using the sum-delta form of a tower section, which points directly straight up. Then the first coat of paint-any color will do for this.
The guy wires are tightly pulled to secure the tower. Therefore, it's nice to be "kind" the wire that wraps around the tower leg. An alternative is using thimbles. The 1/2 " bolt that goes through the bracket can support the thimble. The bolt does not have much OD. To increase the "OD" and be easier on the thimble, a elongated "washer" made from 1/2" pipe is added. Cut the right length, when the bolt is tighten up makes a good spacer for the thimble to ride on. The left image is the turn buckles, washers and thimble laid out on the bench. After cutting the pipe clean them up a bit on the grinder and also run a round file on the inside for burrs as well. You'll need to bend the thimbles around the washer.
Next, you'll need to fabricate an "interface" between the lower guy point and the dead man. Here, chosen was a double plate for the bolts to go through to hold the lower end of the turn buckles. This plate then can be welded on to whatever you are using for a dead man, such as pipe, angle or square tubing. TIP: Isolate any dead man steel in concrete from the soil to prevent (or greatly reduce) the potential of corrosion.
Here shows the installed brackets; this is the top. The permanent(steel) guy wires are yet to be installed.
This is the lower-mid bracket. Note different design from the top one. The zip ties are not clipped off from the recent cable run.
If you don't' wish to take the time to build these anti-twist bracket commercially built ones are sold by Rohn:
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