1M Issues because we care......by Karl Shoemaker

Introduction

I've been doing some research on these issues from forums and my own experience. I have a link or two, here, then just the issues, listed below. Also I pasted several discussions from Snowest and RSS forums. I pretty much kept only the content and edited out the "noise".

Rear Bumper repair project

Rack (this is not an issue, just a fun project for Summer and working on your sled).

For the bogging problem (in deep snow) go back to the "projects" page and visit the "can" page.

Here's a view showing the hose clamp issue. In the engine compartment, just check around for cables and such, rubbing on a sharp edge. This was taken with a 900; same pretty much applies for the 800.








 

 

 

 

 

 

For the battery start option, the bracket digs into the belly pan on the inside. Cure: grind down some of the "hook" right angle.








 

 

 

 

 

 

Speaking of battery, it just about prevents access of the chain oil dip stick. The only way I could gain access was to pull the battery. What a pain. Now for the right there's the issue of the brake line that might be cut by the aluminum edge. Cure: either bend the edge out a little (as you can see by the plier marks) or glue another layer of tubing over the first. I did both.








 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a nice pull/starter rope guide so it doesn't fall over and rub in the wrong place. I welded some round steel on the existing rope guide, polished the inside and painted it. Works nice. Speaking of breaking a fabric, I guess the limiter strap broke after some 2400 miles and 1 1/2 seasons. I guess that many miles on a bumpy trail does it. Here's what the '03 stock one looks like.








 

 

 

 

 

 

I picked up the newer, slightly wider straps; two of them, just like the new '04 King Cats are doing. I removed the center bolt/hardware, since it's no longer needed and installed a strap on each side of it. I spaced them far apart as possible to even the load on the bars. One side I kept the OEM wing nut and on the other side used some new HW; 1/4" bolt, 1" in length, with 1/4 x 20 locking (nylon) type nuts and some flat washers. At this time I'm leaving them out, on the last hole, as I noticed pulling it/them up a hole slightly reduced the wheelie tendency, but more important (to me) reduced the lean-over effort just a little. Climbing changes were not determined, due to varying snow conditions these last weeks. One other little item; on the right picture, notice the suspension bar as a wear mark; that's from bottoming out and the boogie wheel hitting it. I happens on both sides. Only the left wheel is slightly bent. Since then I've gone up to the middle notch on the rear springs. As of yet I have not tried adjusting the center shock spring as well.








 

 

 

 

 

 

I've also been experimenting with my snow flap. Hey ! That's funny looking but I can almost guarantee my buddys won't get sprayed like they have been with my "mini-flap" I've been experimenting with. It's some reinforced rubber sheeting I picked up at a local distributor in town. They have the "straight" rubber type, too. Both are about 1/8" in thickness. I might cut it down a little, but wanted to start out long and see how it works. I won't to go back to an OEM flap. They get in the way while digging out of a hole and don't seem to last much longer than a season, as you saw in my (above) modification, under the bumper project.








 

 

 

 

 

 

In 2006 I noticed the rivets in the middle of the tunnel (top and sides) were losening up. After a couple tries to replace them and having the loose problem come back in a couple of rides, I settled on a buddy installing "Hucks" type. After the first ride of 06-07 season it looks good so far. More to come, later, stay tuned to this page.

Out of the thousands of sleds a few seemed to have a problem, and that's with any brand. I'm posting this because I care, like so many Cat owners wish to compare notes to make a good sled even better. Cat's serious about making a good mountain sled, now.

For the suspension they changed the front pipe mounting method. In older models the tube went from side to side, with a rotating "nut" inside. When you loosened one side, then tried to loosen the other it just turned and turned. Most frustrating, unless you found out about a simple "fix". ake another (longer) bolt with a nut on it, screw it into the opened side and tightened the nut down against the tunnel. This will hold the floating tubular "nut" inside, so you can loosen the other side. Then just remove this bolt/nut tool on the first side, and your front is clear.

This time around and hopefully we can get input to them on some of the issues. Already covered:

  • Starter rope breaking; This happens much more on the '03 900 which require more pulling. The 800 is EFI with less pulling, however still happens sometimes. What the guys on the forum have been doing (myself included) is to replace that wimpy nylon rope with Spectra, usually found at mountain equipment places, such as REI or Mountain Gear both located in Spokane. They are using 5.5mm, but after trying it, you might consider 5.0mm. Also, you might consider packing a 10mm socket, short ex. and ratchet in case you want to either repair it on the spot or take it off for the trip home. Another tip is to soak the new rope in wesson oil for about 2 days. I did that (with a substitute Crisco oil) which made a huge difference in the durability of the 5.0 spectra rope. Someday I'm going back to the OEM rope with the same procedure.

  • The drive shaft seems to be prone to breakage; there's been several cases; one thought is to replace it with a titanium one. Source unknown at this time. As of May '03 a few more cases are popping up. I consider this the most serious issue for Cat. Hopefully the customer force can write/call/complain to Cat and there ARE going to improve on that one. IMO that might be a determining factor on the next brand of sled purchase for many, unless they recall and come up with a better shaft, such as NOT reducing the diameter back down to 1" at the bearing end(s)..........Just an update for June, '03. "largo" on the Snowest forum found a shop to make them out of 4130 for about $176 US. It's a Canadian shop, I think. Stay tuned. Feb 19,2004 I just hear we might have a source for the shaft. $200, and I think that's Canadian $ on this site , then go to "chassis" and listed will be the shaft !.

    Also relevant; some guys have been the bearings break; apparently certain production 1Ms have a notch around the face or some surfaces, I'm unclear and will need more input to post, here.

  • the hose clamps in the rear are a course thread and vibrate loose. Some of the guys are saying the track hitting it loosens it; my feelings is it's the former. Cure: tighten each time you do your "pre-flight" checks, or replace with that special type that has a fine threaded nut attached to it, or use the later clip type that is used in the engine area. Cat is addressing this issue; I saw their '04 King Cat uses the clip type in the rear. I did try covering them with RTV, which only helped a little. Also try some shrink wrap around the clamps, by Gates .

    Another word on the covers: new 1M's have a cover over the rear hoses. The part numbers are 3606-380 RH and 3606-381 LH. they retail for about $3.75. I guess the other question is how to secure them, with screws or rivets? You still may need to tighten the clamps, unless you change them out as well, with the spring type, like what's use under the hood for the hoses.

  • General cables/wires rubbing, throttle, oil, etc.-obvious re-routing, tying off. Be careful where and how much you tie-I've seen some cables are meant to be loose to absorb engine vibration.

    Wiring problems Update......

  • Coolant drain hose re-routing to avoid sharp edge near MAG side of engine

  • APV drain line rerouting to move it away from exhaust can.

  • Throttle sensing wires rubbing on sharp framing edge-rerouted up and over.

  • Fuel line rubbing on the steering column (EFI only). My cure was to rtv glue the line up on the air box a little, while still allowing flex for engine vibration.

  • Motor mounts not stiff/strong enough-twisting (probably 900 and modded ones only)

  • Exhaust can rubber grommet separating. Might be isolated case.

  • Belly dis color (near exhaust?) I think this one's a trivial and happens to any sled. I have tree marks/stains on mine, but that's not the sled's fault.

  • Exhaust pipe gets bent up from hitting logs, etc on the bottom; This was an issue with my sled;cure: cut nearly all off, except the last 1/2" or so, no more bent pipe. I notice other brands do this as well. This is not a problem with the 600 and Cat addressed this on their '04s 800s and possible 900s.

  • Clutch access plug popping out. Cure-glued the new one in with rtv. (dealer warranted)

  • Belly pan is thin; cure GET A SKID PLATE. I love mine. Good color accent, too. Great save. It was hard to swallow the $100 bill for the OEM version. Actually all brands of sleds need the protection.

    Here's some additions-mostly isolated cases, but worth mentioning.

  • Loose screws for the coil; tighten them.
  • Rear springs rub against the inside of the upper idler wheels when they are adjusted to the stiffest position.
  • Coolant bottle-tendency to rub on the pipe- (possibly only on 900); cure: bend the bracket a little or the pipe bracket, but not too close to the belly plastic, or you'll melt it. (I've not had that happen on mine).

  • There was a suspected fuel overflow problem, however this was never proved. This discussion came from the SkiDoo guys. I did glue the end of the drain tube, then drilled a small (1/8 or less) hole for pressure relief. This is not a 1M issue, however if you are concerned about it this might be the cure.

    Here's the dissension from the forums:

    Subject: Re: Got my new sled...
    Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 16:44:25 -0600
    Newsgroups: rec.sport.snowmobiles


    too bad, I felt Cat had a REAL mountain sled this time...... I`m sure if it`s clutching and gearing they`ll get something to work...... Too bad That's the thing. They DO have an update for it already. It references glazing belts, but it really is more widely applicable than that would suggest. It is fully covered by the warranty. Here ya go:

    ----

    ARCTIC CAT SERVICE BULLETIN
    DECEMBER 27, 2000
    BULLETIN NO: 2001-1-13
    PRODUCT LINE: SNOWMOBILE
    AFFECTED MODEL(S): 2001 MOUNTAIN CAT 800
    VIN: NOT APPLICABLE
    SUBJECT: CLUTCHING/GEARING/CARBURETION

    CONDITION:
    It has been determined that at some operating conditions and riding styles the drive belt on the affected model may become glazed and hot and draw into the driven clutch. This condition may cause damage to the belt.

    SOLUTION:
    To minimize the drive belt from drawing into the driven clutch, the following clutching and gearing recommendations can be followed in order to compensate for the condition. Listed below are recommended changes for operating at varying altitude.

    NOTE:
    Due to different riding styles, not all riders will require the changes indicated above.

    NOTE:
    The 2001 Mountain Cat 800 is initially set up at the factory for operation between 5000-9000 feet. If Low Altitude Kit (p/n 2693-056)* or Low Altitude Kit (p/n 2639-057)** has been or will be installed, the low altitude recommendations for each kit must be followed.
    * 0-3000 ft altitude ** 3000-5000 ft altitude

    RECOMMENDED CHANGES FOR VARYING ALTITUDES

    3000-5000 ft altitude
    1. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    2. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    3. Install Drive Chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)

    3000-9000 ft altitude
    1. Install cam arms (64g) (p/n 0746-614)***
    2. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    3. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    4. Install drive chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)
    *** new part number

    Over 9000 ft altitude
    1. Install 53o/51o torque bracket (p/n 0648-126)****
    2. Install cam arms (62g) (p/n 0746-615)
    3. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    4. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    5. Install drive chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)
    **** included in High Altitude Kit (p/n 2639-058)

    ADDITIONAL RELATED INFORMATION

    1. Make sure to adjust the track tension to 2-2 1/4 in. deflection using a 20 lb downward pull at mid-span.
    2. Adjust the fuel mixture screws and air screws according to the
    following chart.

    0-5000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 2.0 turns outward Air Screw - 1.5 turns outward

    5000-9000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 1.75 turns outward Air Screw - 1.0 turn outward

    Over 9000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 1.75 turns outward Air Screw - 0.0 turn outward

    NOTE:
    Turn the fuel mixture screw IN to lean. Turn the air screw OUT to lean.

    NOTE:
    All adjustments are made from the lightly seated position. Lightly seat the screws. If seated with force, damage to a screw may occur.

    PARTS:
    Order the appropriate number of parts through normal parts-ordering channels. Your dealership Parts Account will be billed and then credited upon receipt of Warranty Claim Form(s) from your dealership.

    WARRANTY:
    A labor allowance of 1.6 hr will be paid per affected snowmobile.
    A Warranty Claim Form of up to 10 vehicle identification numbers (VIN) will be accepted.
    Enter 2001-1-13 in the Failure Code section of the Warranty Claim Form.

    NOTE:
    This bulletin expires December 27, 2002.

    Subject: Re: Question about Cat Bearings
    Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2002 10:11:50 -0600
    Newsgroups: rec.sport.snowmobiles

    The best place to go for the bearings is industrial supply house, or power transmission shop. NTN is always a good brand and most industrial transmission shops carry them. When I replaced my jackshaft and drive shaft bearings I inquired at my dealer and they told me to go down the street to a business called "Bearing and Transmission", which is a local industrial transmission shop, because they could probably sell me all four bearings for the dealer price of one. The best thing to do is to take the old bearings to the shop and ask for replacements to match. I took the Royal catalogue to the transmission shop and had them cross reference them.

    I also looked in the Royal Catalogue when preparing for my work. On my 94 the Royal number call for the PTO drive bearing to have a set screw collar, but what I took off had an eccentric locking collar. As I remember one of the chaincase bearings was a 7/8 i.d. while all the others were 1" i.d. This is why Royal showed four different numbers. The chaincase bearings do not need the locking collars, but the bearings were the same and all came with eccentric lock collars, but they weren't needed. The silicone is needed to seal the chaincase bearings to the retainers and to seal the splines on the shafts through the center of the bearings. If you leave the locking collars on the PTO side in place it will help everything go back in the same place and you may not have to add new shims to the gears and/or clutch. If your drive shaft PTO bearing has an eccentric locking collar replace it with the same kind and don't move the collar, reuse the old one.
    You should also have a small metal straight edge and feeler gauge to check gear alignment after you get it back together.

    FWIW

    Sled = '89 AC Wildcat 650

    I have been looking at Brown's Leisure World and Royal distributing catalog to determine what bearings i need for the drive axle and jackshaft.
    It appears that all four bearings are different. But similar. My sound like a stupid question, but even thought Royal show's 4 different bearing part #'s for the jack and axle shaft, are there any cases where the bearings
    are the same.

    Item # 31 on brown's leisure world...
    http://www.brownsleisureworld.com/Parts/SNOWMOBILE/1989/1989WILDCAT650(0650-
    064-1989)/DRIVEDROPCASEASSEMBLY.htm

    shows the MAG side drive axle bearing without a collar.

    Now look in the Royal Distributing catalog, page 130, Drive axle bearing chaincase side Part # 160-010R2 this bearing has collar, the one shown on brown's site. What's the deal here, sounds like maybe an upgraded bearing that is better for the application. Is this the case.

    Can I run out and get all of these bearings, for example at Canadian tire or my local cat shop.
    Doing suspension this weekend, so i want to make sure i can get all the bearings easily, i could order them from Royal and have them by friday.
    I'll check with local shops tomorrow.

    Summary
    1. Are any of these bearings the same in any of the bearing brand names
    2. Does the Axle Bearing on the Mag side accept two different types of
    bearings, I heard some one say one time to not get a certain type of bearing, get one with collar, ring any bells?

    Thanks guys, you been great!

    I rode my bone-stock 02 800 EFI this past weekend. Since it was new I didn't hold it wideopen long enough to get much of a handle on the clutching, but for what riding I did it didn't seem bad at all with the stock set-up. One thing I did notice is that even the 20/39 gearing feels a little on the tall side for poking around through the trees. I do a lot of that type of riding so I'm going to try 19/40 the next time out.

    Stoy, what are the specs on the Cutler Red/White and Arctic SnoPro light green spring? I've got plenty of helixes I can test with. I'm going to do the gearing by itself first though so I don't confuse one change with another. I'm thinking along the lines of a 55/51, or maybe just a straight 53. The stock helix is a straight 55.

    I'll let you know how they test out after it's fully broken in.


    Huz I'm not sure what the sno-pro is but the Cutlers is .207 wire for coil it is some whatclose to the sno-pro from what sled junky tells me both KJ and sled junky said to run a straight 53 degree helix. I'm 205 lbs. Also in talking with sledjunky today he says the 02's are running better than the 01's Huz how did the EFI feel I had a buddy buy one today he traded his 01 800 for it.

    It was a little rich on the bottom end, especially in the slow going. It would clean right out as soon as you throttled it up though. We get oxygenated gas in CA so I had the fuel type selector wire unplugged (richer setting) for about the first 25 miles. I got a little tired of the low end blubber so I plugged the connector together and that cleaned it right up without being too lean. I don't know about the top end pull since I didn't hold it open for any more than a couple seconds at a time. The few times that I did open it up the RPM went to about 7200 and was at 7400 and still rising when I backed out of it. The midrange was nice and crisp.

    The things pulls like a freight train on steroids. The power valve opening was pretty seamless. You could feel an extra pull come on just before 7000, but you had to try and notice it.

    Mine didn't act up at all from snow coming over the hood and getting around the footwells,etc. I'm looking forward to getting some more miles on it so I can open it up. I think the lower gearing (19/40) I'm going to try will really help out for the slow going in and around the trees.

    mine was acting up yesterday when i was with huz_yur_dady, i think it was spark plugs. It was blubbering and sputtering on the top end. I have the 20/39 gearing and a 53helix. We did switch sleds for a bit and the efi didnt seem to have the throttle response my carb sled does atleast in the low and mid range, didnt go past half throttle. It was probably just the suspension setup but my sled handled alot better than his 02.


    It's really nice to see a post with no lip from the "others"! This year on my '01 800LE I went with SLP twins, v-force reeds, an RK Tech head (15:1) an Avenger II, and probably a 151". One question would be from KJCatmaster. You said you ride the snowies? That's where I ride. Was wondering if you had any experience with the twin piped 800's yet up there. SLP jetting called for a 370/410 (pto/mag) I think I'll end
    up with 63+-g weights, but was looking for advise on what springs to use with that setup. Heard a lot of people bad mouth the stock red/white. I was also thinking about a straight 51 helix, and will probably try a
    49. Also to you and Stoy or any of you for that matter, the trenching" problem is caused by poor rear suspension setup right? I tip the scales in street clothes and a buck 45. When I sit on my sled, there is maybe 1 inch of ride in, and when I bounce on it doesn't give very much. Do I need to change just the springs or what? It's in the ZR setting and I love that. Well, enough rambling, Thanks.

    The EFI works great! With the fuel type selector wire connected (leaner setting) the "jetting", for lack of a better term, is spot on by looking at the plugs and pistons. I think they got the fuel map on these a lot closer than they used to. The pistons have that "just a touch on the safe side" look. If it was carbed I might worry about it in really cold temps, or lower elevation, but since it's EFI I know it'll always be right where it should be without having to dick with anything. Hopefully, the "unplugged" setting is just enough richer that the it'll handle a single pipe. I guess I'll wait and see how the feedback on the Speedwerx pipe turns out. So far they're the only ones saying their pipe works with the EFI. BM seems to disagree though. (that figures) Anyhow, I can't see spending my money to be their lab rat. I'm sure it'll get sorted out pretty quick now that snow's falling. Same deal on the silencers. I'll wait to hear how they work out once some guys try the different ones on the EFI. I can live with the extra 10 lbs for now, rather than spend money on something that doesn't work out.

    I did make a few suspension adjustments, and I yanked the sway bar off. I like it better without it. It's a lot easier to pull over for tight turns and sidehilling. The surprising thing was that it didn't really hurt the corner handling on the trails nearly as much as I thought it might. It's not "tippy" at all. It just tends to lean a bit more when you tuck a ski, but nothing objectionable at all. I really thought I might not like it since I hated my ZR with the bar removed, but it's fine.

    I know that long-ass 151" lumber wagon is never going to turn like a ZR, but it's way better since playing with the suspension a little. On the rear suspension front arm I have an inch and 1/8 of thread showing
    behind the limiter strap nuts, front shock spring preload almost full soft, and the rear springs on the 2nd step of the adjuster cam. On the front, I have just over an inch of threads showing on the shock body behind the spring preload adjuster ring. It may have a little too much ski pressure that way, but it sure turns a lot better.

    If I go riding in some real bottomless powder then I may back off either the ski spring preload, or the rear arm spring preload, but for the conditions today (anywhere from 4 to 10 inches of fresh on a semi packed base) it worked great.

    I put the 19/40 gearing in it. I like that a lot. It's great for the slow going in and around the trees. I don't think I'll have much more than 80-85 mph for top end, but that's ok by me. If I wanted a lake racer then I'd have bought a ThunderCat. ;) I've still got the stock 64 gram weights and yel/grn spring in the primary. That seems fine for now. I may play with it a bit later, but for now it's plenty good. I put a 53* helix and a Cutler red/white spring (The local dealer didn't have a SnoPro green, but ordered it) in the secondary. I initially had it in the middle spring hole, but it was over-revving a little too much with that much tension. I backed it off to the softest preload and that worked out pretty well. I get just about exactly 7500 RPM when I first nail it, then it climbs to 7700. That's a bit over where most of the stock horsepower graphs show the peak horsepower, but I've found that at higher elevation you almost always have to over-rev them a bit to account for the thinner air. I don't have any scientific research to back that up, but it's always worked for me. It's sure as hell a lot snappier than it was stock. It back shifts just like flipping a light switch too.

    At the very least, all the stuff doing is going in the right direction. (Thanks to Stoy and sledjunky for good starting points) A little more tweaking here and there and this will be a great sled. I was a little
    worried that I might be kicking myself in the ass for not buying an 800 RMK, but that's not the case at all. I don't know who's going to highmark who, but that stuff isn't really my thing anyway. I just like poking around through the woods and seeing what's over the next ridge. So far this sled is doing a great job of taking me where I want to go with a minimum of hassle.

    Huz its great to here about your sled! I do believe that this years stock factory weights are 64 gram. Last year it was 62. Arctic recommends the 62 grammers over 9000 ft though but with the Cutler secondary or sno-pro I will stay with the 64 gram so its does not over rev. Did you ever get the specs on the arctic sno-pro spring. Sledjunky said it was very close to the Cutlers red/white but the arctic spring was cheaper. I do have the cutler red/white and the sno-pro let me know which one you like better. I also feel the straight 53 degree helix makes the mt cat 800 a whole lot better animal.

    mt. cat, dale cutler will set the kit specifically for you and your type of riding. The springs are right at $20 each, weights are $43/set, helix's are $20-25 for the cast and $42 for the billets. as far as what i meant by having good luck was i didn't have to do much tweaking to get it to perform well. good backshift and worked well on long climbs. seemed to have a little more on the bottom end then some of the other clutching combo's I have tried. I ride in the snowy range, near laramie wyoming. if you want any more info on his clutching let me know.

    Where is the Peak Hp? 7500? How high should the RPM's go? I think I am topping out around 7700 rpm... Should I go with heavier weights?

    Huz, I have been running 92 octane with 10 percent Alcohol with the wire attached. I know with my 600 EFI while running the same way the plugs were alway good colored. Sound like I should do what the
    factory says while using alcohol. Well I have not burned it up yet, I got 120 mile on it with plenty of 1/4 to 1/2 full throttle pulls at sea level. I pulled my plugs and looked brown. O yah I also have the D&D too, I would recommend it you go that way, is not that much louder than my 99 600.

    huz-yur-daddy ; I still have found nothing out on the speedwerx pipe as of some one useing it yet on the 800EFI. Called speedwerx the other day and they told me you just throw the pipe on and take the air horn out of the air box and reclutch it for 7700 RPM's with there clutch kit and go. As we all most know this works 1 percent of the time and 99 percent of the time there is other things that need to be taking into account to make it work our if it well even work at all ! Well I sent the Heads off to Dakota Performance to take a little off them because I'm not sure if the pipe is the way I well ever go and it sounds like it should work with the little bit I'm having milled off the heads. For any one else thats putting a PPP silencer on the EFI this is what I know about it to this point on the EFI 800 . Just a couple notes on the PPP can I put in today.It fits good other then the rubber mount they use to the chain case.It should work but looked a little cheeze to me. If it does not hold up I well make a mount for it. I started up the sled and this is a little louder then I thought it would be. I put the stock silencer on the scale it come in at 14.7 LBS then I WT the PPP can and it come in at 6.4 lbs so you save 8.3 lbs off the sled with this. Well have to try and get out and ride this sled one of these days.Still no snow here(sucks) . Also got the simmons skis they really look great but now lets see how they perform on the snow well keep you posted on things that I'm using to gain better performance on the 800 EFI MT CAT LE .

    Sounds like you have the 62 gram, need to get to 64 grams need to run at 7400

    Sorry, the primary weights are 64 grams.

    That likely explains it. Where are you sending your tach to get it calibrated, and how many $$$? I'm just going by how hard the thing pulls, and it certainly doesn't seem to be falling on it's face the way the stock horsepower graph indicates it should. However, it did fall off until I backed the Cutler spring off to the softest preload setting. My line of thinking on clutching has always been to run as soft a secondary spring as I can, but I had heard that guys were having trouble with too quick of an upshift when trying softer springs in the 01 800s. I guess the things just make so much torque that they'll suck the belt right down in the secondary without a fairly stiff spring. Now, to be completely honest I don't know what helix they were
    running and that'd definitely have a lot to do with it. I got a private message from one of the more highly respected members on this site and his thoughts were that the Cutler red/wht was too stiff for this sled. I'll be trying more set ups. The one thing I can at least fall back on is what I've got in it right now. It may not be perfect, but it's better than it was stock for the kind of riding I do most.

    Thanks, huz_yur_dady

    ... hey Greenpaw... I told Corey to tell you this while we were on the way up to Felkers this morning... call Eric at Alpine Motorsports in Kremmling (sorry, don't remember the #, but he is in the yellow pages)... I talked to him a half-dozen times earlier this year when I was thinking of buying a Cat... he does anything from Cat mods, to well set-up stockers... sounded to me like he knew what he was talking about, plus he would be somewhat local, eh? I'm sure it will be one of those deals where you have to at least buy the parts from him to get the info... prolly' won't give the specs for free, ya know?? I would call him and see what he says... I'm sure he has a lot of time on an 01'.... good luck...

    Had an '01 800 LE. ran d&d twins, filters, cut the heads till we got 145-150 lbs in each ( don't remember what the squish ended up being), 450/460 mains, hymark roller plate (47.5 degree) with white spring, 72 gram weights in primary, turqouise d&d primary spring, 151" 2.25. Pulled rails down and back (can't remember #'s), 9 tooth extroverts, 20/39 gearing, boss seat. 1700 miles two belts, lots of 92 octane fuel, and tons of fun!





    Huz-yur-daddy ; My dealer does it for free . Know this well not help you but you may see if your dealer haves the tester our try some speed shops .


    Already posted this somewhere but....Put an Avenger II on my 800 LE, along the other goodies and the tack showed 900RPM difference at engagement. OOPS. Didn't have the right multiple set, but now the stock tach is still about 300RPM high.

    I found out a little info on the 800EFI. I know a guy that haves put 200 miles on the sled with a PPP can with no problems . Said the sled haves been running great . If I find out any thing new I well post .;)

    Ok, update time! Set up is all still the same as earlier, except I swapped the Cutler red/wht for the AC red/wht. I had it in the 2nd hole (one hole from full soft) that dropped the RPM about 200. It pulls hard, but it's hard to compare conditions from Friday to the conditions today. Is it a better set up, or is it just loosening up as it breaks in?
    Thanks for the info on the PPP.

    Ok, another update... Clutching and gearing are the same as before: 64 gram weights, yel/grn primary spring, 53* helix and AC red/wht spring. 19/40 gearing. (I did back off the secondary spring to full soft since last time though) This set up is working real well for the type of riding I do. I may try a shallower helix and a yellow spring, but for now I'm happy with it.

    The biggest improvement I've made so far was moving the rear suspension arm forward to the ZR mounting position. It makes the sled trench much less. I've got the front arm limiter straps pulled up about 1/2 way.
    The ski shock springs are full soft, the front arm spring is full soft, and the rear arm preload blocks are on the highest step of the cams. I could run it without bottoming much on any of the rear spring settings, but the steering accuracy was best with it full stiff. I could also make it steer better by cranking up the ski shock springs, but that made it too hard to pull the sled over. Some guys had said that it felt too stiff for them even on the lightest rear spring setting, but I weigh 235. For me, the stiff rear spring setting was a better option.

    Overall I'm unimpressed with the parabolic skis. A friend is putting Simmons on his MC. I'll be interested to see how those work. Has anyone tried the SLP straight line tracking, or tri-keel skis on an MC? I'm keeping my options open, but the stock skis are gonna have to go.

    We finely got snow in Minot ND. I put 150 miles on the sled ( 2002 MT 800LE efi 144' ) yesterday. I had the PPP can on and I like the sound and it seem to work great on the EFI motor. I had the sled geared to tall ( the clutch was running a little to hot for me as it would pull it with no problem ) so I well drop the gearing from a 24/39 to a 23/39 and go from there. This is with a 1.25 " 144" track in it with 172 studs.

    Allso I had 12 Thous. cut off the heads and no problems with this on the EFI .I run 91 oct gas in it with the rich wire hooked togetter. Had heavy hitter wts in it set at 73.5 grams. Hit the gas at a dead stop it would pull up to 7100RPM and slowly go up to 7400rpm. had the stock 55 deg. helix in it also. Well the only change I well make before the next ride is the gears.I plane on going to cooke city the 26 of Dec. . So I'm really keeping a close eye on what set up works the best in the MT's. :confused;

    I know a guy thats going to try the speedwerx pipe on the 800 EFI sled.He still is waiting for it to show up well keep posted on how it works out .:D

    Cool on the Speedwerx pipe. I just ordered a R/T canister from BM since they finally saw the light and dropped the price down in line with everybody else's. ($200, on special for a limited time) At the very least that's about the least expensive 9 lbs I'll be able to take off of it. I'm going to play with the suspensions settings some more to try and improve on the deep snow performance, but I'm beginning to form the
    opinion (like I didn't already know... hehe) that the primary disadvantage of the MC is it's weight. It needs to be about 40 lbs lighter and most of the weight needs to come off the front of the sled. D&R with a belt drive, or a gear drive this coming summer???? The gears in my head are already turning. ;)

    Huz-yur, thanks for all the help on the ZR position. Im going to hold off on moving the TSL until i exhaust the other options (tweaking the suspension). As Sledjunky said it will probably worsen my control issue (im tired of the RMK pukes making fun my line when climbing!!) Back to the pipe/can issue. I was curious why you hadn't looked at the SLP pipe/can combo?? its listed at 365.00 (i think) for BOTH!! 12 pounds and 10 HP!! This was the direction I was headed, but if you know something I don't, tell me!!

    Hey guys... I have paid attention a little and here is what I have done: Cutler Red/White secondary spring, recharged shocks (all were 100psi too or more low), PPP muffler, Jetted down to 300, Port & Polished, Milled heads, and moved suspension to ZR position.

    I am wondering if anyone has seen a big change using the SLP outside air box?


    Why does the 2002 800mc start to run ruff when you are in deep fluffy powder?

    You should start another thread with that question... Could be the air situation... Either the exhaust is being restricted by the Powder or the intakes are covered (on the '01's the intakes are at your foot wells).

    i have an 01 600 mt. cat with 600 hard miles on it and not a bit of problem. I love the new style, it handles and performs like a dream

    :)HAVE 158 MILES SO FAR NO TROUBLE...COO


    Up date on the 800 EFI . My dealer knows a guy he sold the sled to that took the air horn out of the air box . He haves put 70 miles on it so far and every thing looks good as far as piston wash and plug color goes . There is some gain with the air horn removed . Don't every body go out and pull your air horns out tomorrow and drive of thinking every thing is fine . Need to keep a close eye on your piston wash and plugs. 1/4 throttle to wide open . Just something we can try to gain some performance on the EFI model. Well post with further updates

    For informational purposes only. Real life weights of exhaust parts:
    Stock pipe (with shields on) 13.5 lbs (Fairly hefty)
    Stock silencer 16.5 lbs (How ridiculous is that?)
    R/T silencer from BM 8.5 lbs (That's much better)

    I weighed everything on a digital bathroom scale. I first weighed two 25 lb weights from my bench press together at the same time. The scale said they weighed 50.5 lbs. I weighed each part with the weights on the scale as well and then subtracted 50.5 lbs from the reading. It should be accurate to within less than a lb.

    I'll post again once I've had a chance to actually run the sled with the new silencer. I've still got my ear to the ground for any info on how the aftermarket single pipe from Speedwerx is working out on the EFI 800. If anyone hears anything about it, or any other single for that matter, please let me know.

    :(:(:( Burned down the right whole on the 800mc sunday 1 mile from the truck. Dealer says i was running way to lean. But I have not changed my jetting since last Feb. Clutch side whole looks fine. I ride at Cooke all the time and was there when she gave way. Why did it let go this weak and not before?? Does anyone know of any problems from cat?? I was running 330 Mains. I checked it last year and it was fine and some dealers where telling people to run that jet. Help anyone???? :confused;

    330's for cooke is not lean at all I ran 320's in island park last year no problems which is lower alt. Arctic did have some durability issues with 01 pistons thats why the 02's are different or strengthened.

    I have heard of this problem also , How was the temp? lower temps mean leaner, I think the big 800 pistons need the fuel. Almost all that I have seen go down have been in colder temps. Check the mid range and pilot jets. Some have gone down from lean low end.

    Update on the burn down, After tearing down the big twin we found that the rod was also shot. Arctic has agreed to give me a new crank that comes with the rides attached. I have also heard that the new 2002 800's have a new piston. Maybe a problem with the 2001's????? I spend $8,000 on a sled and this happens!!! Anyone have an thoughts on how to get this thing warranteed or am I just out of bounds??:P

    Lost the lower rod bearing on my 2001 800MC on the last ride last spring. I lost the mag side lower rod bearing. Cause? And I run 340 main jets at cooke with twin PSI pipes and a SLP air box I'm running avenger 111.

    I am taking a friend of mine to cooke and he is riding his mtn cat 800, 01. The cat dealer in cooke recommended 330 mains. What should he be running for jets?
    This is what I think we should have in it 330 mains 55 pilots needle 2nd clip for top Air screw ?
    The harmics are bad at 7700 to 7900 in the 800 twin, have seen some twin piped 800 with the rod bearings beat out of them that are running in this RPM range, as for the pistons cat is saying that any mod engine that are running hotter piston temps need to change for more durability if they are over 1300 miles (NEW!)

    I bought the LE version of the '02 800 efi and I am thoroughly impressed. He has a few buggs to work out with it at first. Changed the primary spring to purple and upped the primary weights to 71.5 grams. What a difference in doing that. This thing really pulls now! I did have a catastrophic problem with the secondary just recently, something I have never seen before on Cats as well as my dealer. There are 2 pressed in bushings on the inner hub of the secondary and for unknown reasons the inner bearing bushing came out thus causing major damage to the secondary from running out of alignment. A very isolated incident I'm sure.

    My only compliant now is the whether has turned real nasty... current temps @ -43 c and the friggin wind is blowing. Forecast aren't good for the next few weeks either.

    Well after lurking for years I figure I'll take a moment to enlighten RSS as to my own experience with the early release 03 CAT.

    My buddy and I each took delivery of the ZR900's on Jan 29th after deciding to upgrade from a couple of 600's. (98 ZRT and 99 ZR) We put down $8400 US clams for these beasts. (included reverse)

    Initial Impressions:
    Overall look (IMHO) Awesome.
    Sit on comfort: Excellent
    Sled 1 and 2: Fit and finish Good. (I still think DOO has a nicer fit and finish but I've been a CAT guy for years...)
    (What we found after the dealer uncrated the machines and did his
    preliminary setup) Sled 1: Had to straighten out the speedo and tach. (Must have been installed by a sideways AC employee) Had to re-position the rear suspension spring on the manual adjuster. Seems to have been installed sitting on the edge of the adjuster. (Glad I saw that before I ripped it up the lake) I took apart the plastic dash/tank ring to install the wire for my heated shield and found the low oil sensor wire disconnected. Plugged that back in. (Sled 1 and 2) Modified what I believe to be a snow ingestion shield under the left hand inner hood. (Piece of aluminum held on with a couple of spring clips) Was flapping in the breeze on both machines when we picked up the sleds. (I would have hated to have that drop off into the clutch at 7400 RPM) Sled 1
    and 2: Topped off all fluids and gave them a grease job. (Very little grease from the factory)

    Ready to ride: We decided to take a quick run up to VT to my buddies place to give 'em a quick run prior to the "big" run in Jackman this coming weekend. Sled 1: SCREEEEEEEMED
    Sled 2: SCREEEEEEEEMDdddd.......then dead (7 miles on the odometer) WOW.. how much $$$$ for dead in 7 miles? I guess that works out to be about $1200 bucks per mile. Expensive ride! As it was late we decided to have a bite and check out sled 2's fault in the AM.
    Morning comes and the hood is up on sled 2. No spark, fiddle, no spark. Call dealer, he suggests that we unplug the main wiring harness and try firing the sled. Sled runs now. Of course no lights, tach, handwarmers. But at least we get 30 miles on each sled (with our initial tank of 100 to 1 fuel mix) WOW these machines rip! 1/4 cracked and we're at 80 MPH. Out of the hole (with 192 Woody's Golddiggers) HOLD ON! Machines handle great! (Got to get use to the "bent bars" ... I think they'll be very handy in the corners) After our quick 30 Miles (and about 14 gallons of fuel between the 2 machines later) back to the dealer, he plugged the harness back together, sled fires up WTF???. Well, I guess Sled 2 may have an intermittent issue. Glad Sled 1 belongs to me. Hate to be 30 miles into the woods at night with an intermittent electrical issue. Be a long ride back with no lights. Well, at least we got the cost down to $280.00 per mile per sled.

    to be continued..........

    On Sunday I went to the local Cat dealer and they are nice people there, the mechanic had just bought one it had 45miles on it and me and my bud were eyeing it up, the guy walked over and asked if we wanted to take it for a rip. So we grapped our helmets off our sleds and took for a rip down the abandoned grass runway. I tell ya that thing tours man you hit that throttle and before you can say holy crap you see that needle at 100mph. I wish they had an EFI model. Another thing it shakes like son of holy man I thought my 600 shook alot times that by 5. Over all I liked it but if I were looking at a new sled I would wait for that F7 it's only got 10horse less then the 900 and it's 37lbs lighter!!!

    Just my opinion on the machine

    37 lbs lighter??? The 800 & 900 ZR weighs in at 507, the F7 weighs in
    at 435 so the difference is 72 lbs. Personally, I own a 02 800 ZR CC
    EFI and I wouldn't even consider buying the ZR 900 with the new F7
    coming to the plate for next season.... That's only my personal
    opinion though.

    kjc are you running the setup that a/c is telling you to run at that elevation. Aso this sled does have some serious top end and yes if you give it enough room it will out run my improved 800 ,[pipes reeds]. On hard pack this sled rocks but put it in some powder and it hurts with this setup. 66gram weights,y/g spring ,55 helix.red/white spring.
    don't get me wrong we love this sled but it seems to have some tuning problems,just like the 800 did when i bought mine. now my 800 is hard to beat on the drag track. Our club runs 500ft mountain rules.so far my improved 800 has 4 first in improved,1first 2seconds 800mod,1second 900mod,1third 1000 improved. So I guess when you compare similar horse power with lighter weight sled it should keep up or beat the 800. They said it did at island park, so what is different? from the protos to the production.

    bttw we talked to jason at a/c this morning he said it might be possible that the decompression holes that were designed into the cylinder did not get blocked off . they said it would make a big difference.I guess the design did not work so the factory is supposed to plug them and the early model may have been missed . We are going to tear down top end to see. about the avy , it was one of the younger riders we took with us .young dumb and full of cum. invensible you know. I think he now has learned his lesson.

    sjohns I am not exactly sure, this is the first I have heard of a decompression port. the mechanic who owns the sled said that he should be able to see it with just the heads off. guess we'll find out soon as we tear down

    sjohns it is in the exhaust port side of cylinder.

    Got enough snow to do some testing yesterday prolly put 15 miles on her and put her back in the shop. Went back this a.m. and had leaked a half tank of fuel on the floor. The main fuel line that runs from the tank to the fuel pump had been pinched between the bottom of the air box Yes you are correct on the 1m, Obviously, the specs are for the 01 and
    02 models that I have been tuning as well as the 03 900's. I should
    have been more clear in the breakdown. Also a few items to note is
    that to remove the velocity stacks in the air box. Also, on the carbed units when tuned as suggested, the idle will come up so bring it into desired levels and enjoy.

    Just saw your post on mileage on the 800 1m. I'll pass on the secret....Fuel screw out 1/2 -3/4, no more. Air screw out 2-21/2. Needle in the middle or one clip up from middle depending on pyrometer or plug color. Follow main jetting as Arctic recommends. You'll find mileage in the 11 to 14 mpg range and a lot crisper bottom end.

    OK.. i think the stk setup will be real close for you. Assuming the setup in yours is the 5000 foot setup. I've found the weight they suggest is a lil light , it will pull more than they say. I found my clutches got real hot after 8 pulls so i backed off the sec spg and installed a 53 helix and that seemed to help. 350s seem to work well at 6000 feet so adjust accordingly. Pull the shelf out of the box for a bit more air. Pull the limiters way up if you have lots of snow and crank the ski springs pretty tite. All the dealers in the know say the stk setup is very good... but hey , we know that can't be right!!! Right?? Let me know how you do...sj

    We ran 66 gram weights, stock spring (yellow/white) in the primary. A 53 degree helix, stock spring (red/white) in the secondary, set in the second to the loosest hole. The jets were 330 mains with the needles dropped to the 4th position (clip one down from the top). This set up worked really well at Cooke City (7660 to 10000), the temperature
    was about 15 to 25. The sled held at 7300 to 7400 all day and it didn't seem to heat the belt.

    yup that sounds about what i mentioned...cept my prim got real hot.

    Well guys I had the chance to ride a dealer demo last weekend for the day and I gotta tell you this thing was really impressive. There wasn't a sled up there that would highmark it, (4 feet of new snow in under 2
    wks) one sled would but he had over $15,000 into it. My '01 800 was up there, dad was riding it, and a bunch of other 800's (all brands) including my buddies '01 RMK8 that runs awesome, usually out climbs my Cat 800 and my Cat runs awesome, he's got twins, lightweight everything, reeds, 156" track, anyways my 800 would never get within 30 yards of the 1M, buddies 800 came close a few times within 15 yards but never highmarked it and I won't even mention the attempts that were made on Summit 8's, everybody up there was very impressed, especially since it was right out of the box and wasn't even broke in yet, had .6
    miles on it when i picked it up!! I ordered one the second I took it back, this is going to be one badboy sled and if somebody says any different just cause it's a Cat is flat out lying or doesn't know what the hell they are talking about. My friend was so impressed he is considering trading in his Polaris for a '03 Cat and he is die hard Polaris, I've taken everybody's crap the past 4 or 5 years about being on a Cat and I'll admit RMK's do work very well but now it's my turn to be on the other side of the teasing!!! I'm pumped, if anybody out there is considering a new sled, I suggest giving this one a try, but don't ride it unless you want to buy one or you'll end up doing just that-I had no intention of buying a new sled and now look at me. If anyone wants more of a report about the sled let me know, I'll always give an honest opinion of a sled no matter what I ride!! peace, 900 1M is the Cat's Ass!!!

    I like the 1M and ordered a 600EFI 1M for the wife... With that said, what is wrong with your mod sled? Shouldn't your 156" 800 w/ 175hp @ the crank weighing 475 lbs beat the 9001M? I like the power and handling of the 1M but it shouldn't be that good.

    Who did your 2x3 drop and roll? What gears are you running? How do you figure you have 175 hp from a single piped 800 cc sled? I haven't seen a 159" offered from ANY dealer. I have heard that the out of the box calibrations on the 1M were way off--seems odd you rode an absolute ringer. Lets see pictures of your sled.

    Nope he clearly has a 175 hp sled........ dynoed by Bruce (PSI fame).......It actually does sound like a neato mod sled if you were sitting down to think up some cool stuff to do to a kitty. He got most of his stuff close, story just got out of hand. Or maybe his dad is a big fat 425lb monster and that is why his hotrod got worked so bad. WOOA up der dog! Rad sled...those are some phat digits yur layin down on the crew, greens on sez da chumps ain't puffin your garden salad!

    I haven't had heard enough about the new 900 1m. Before I ordered my 800 151, the salesman indicated that a customer bought a early release 900 1m and took it West twice. Had a 800 144 before that. Sounded like the guy was more than happy with his 900 1m. Said it was easier in the powder and mod 800s was able to keep up with it. Only thing he has done to it was a wicked clutch kit...dont know what tho. Only thing he said was,the guy said the power between the 800 to 900 wasn't a whole lot to talkabout, but cheaper than modding out a 800 tho. Salesman said he traded in the early release 900 1m for the fall production 900 1m. However, that aside, I decided to go with the 800 for its efi. I didn't want to worry about carb set ups while out West.

    They are finally taking care of the 01 800 piston problem. No charge to the owner, contactyour dealer...later

    Whoa, Whoa, when did you get this? Are they sending out letters to everyone who purchased a 2001 800? Has there been many go down due to piston failures? I have heard a little about this problem but heard it was only on engines that have had mods done to them. My mc800 has 3500 miles with no trouble at all and I was thinking of doing the top end this fall but if AC is going to flip the bill then I'm going to jump on board.

    Pistons are already on the way for one of my buddy's '01 MC 800. He has had no trouble so far, either.


    I'm going to head down to my dealer and ask a few questions because I haven't heard any thing from cat yet. Thanks for the heads up.

    Got my letter Friday the 11th. Talked to dealer in Denver said it would take about 4-6 weeks to get the parts.

    The Service Bulletin Date was on September 24 2002 Bulletin # 2003-1-07

    ARCTIC CAT SERVICE BULLETIN
    DECEMBER 27, 2000
    BULLETIN NO: 2001-1-13
    PRODUCT LINE: SNOWMOBILE
    AFFECTED MODEL(S): 2001 MOUNTAIN CAT 800
    VIN: NOT APPLICABLE
    SUBJECT: CLUTCHING/GEARING/CARBURETION

    CONDITION:
    It has been determined that at some operating conditions and riding styles the drive belt on the affected model may become glazed and hot and draw into the driven clutch. This condition may cause damage to the belt.

    SOLUTION:
    To minimize the drive belt from drawing into the driven clutch, the following clutching and gearing recommendations can be followed in order to compensate for the condition. Listed below are recommended changes for operating at varying altitudes.

    NOTE:
    Due to different riding styles, not all riders will require the changes
    indicated above.

    NOTE:
    The 2001 Mountain Cat 800 is initially set up at the factory for operation between 5000-9000 feet. If Low Altitude Kit (p/n 2693-056)* or Low Altitude Kit (p/n 2639-057)** has been or will be installed, the low altitude recommendations for each kit must be followed. * 0-3000 ft altitude ** 3000-5000 ft altitude

    RECOMMENDED CHANGES FOR VARYING ALTITUDES

    3000-5000 ft altitude
    1. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    2. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    3. Install Drive Chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)

    3000-9000 ft altitude
    1. Install cam arms (64g) (p/n 0746-614)***
    2. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    3. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    4. Install drive chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)
    *** new part number

    Over 9000 ft altitude
    1. Install 53o/51o torque bracket (p/n 0648-126)****
    2. Install cam arms (62g) (p/n 0746-615)
    3. Install top sprocket 20T (p/n 0602-456)
    4. Install bottom sprocket 39T (p/n 0602-451)
    5. Install drive chain (70p) (p/n 1602-041)
    **** included in High Altitude Kit (p/n 2639-058)

    ADDITIONAL RELATED INFORMATION

    1. Make sure to adjust the track tension to 2-2 1/4 in. deflection using
    a 20 lb downward pull at mid-span.
    2. Adjust the fuel mixture screws and air screws according to the
    following chart.

    0-5000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 2.0 turns outward
    Air Screw - 1.5 turns outward

    5000-9000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 1.75 turns outward
    Air Screw - 1.0 turn outward

    Over 9000 ft altitude
    Fuel Mixture Screw - 1.75 turns outward
    Air Screw - 0.0 turn outward

    NOTE:
    Turn the fuel mixture screw IN to lean. Turn the air screw OUT to lean.

    NOTE:
    All adjustments are made from the lightly seated position. Lightly seat
    the screws. If seated with force, damage to a screw may occur.

    PARTS:
    Order the appropriate number of parts through normal parts-ordering
    channels. Your dealership Parts Account will be billed and then
    credited upon receipt of Warranty Claim Form(s) from your dealership.

    WARRANTY:
    A labor allowance of 1.6 hr will be paid per affected snowmobile.
    A Warranty Claim Form of up to 10 vehicle identification numbers (VIN)
    will be accepted.
    Enter 2001-1-13 in the Failure Code section of the Warranty Claim Form.

    NOTE:
    This bulletin expires December 27, 2002.
    Curious.

    Arctic Cat ZRT800 '99 BULLETIN

    Arctic Cat, Inc. has issued a service bulletin for the 1999 ZRT 800 for performance related issues. Update #637-193 provides correction for the factory setup of the sled and includes: Carburetor jets, needles and slides; clutching components including weights and springs; and a new muffler. Arctic Cat will also extend the engine warranty by one year. Arctic Cat recommends contacting your local dealer for details and update scheduling.

    Arctic Cat ZL 600 Snowmobiles '99

    Arctic Cat has issued a recall for SOME of it's 1999 model year ZL 600's. Arctic Cat has identified a possible problem with the fuel pump on this model. Arctic Cat has also identified the serial numbers affected and is asking customers to contact their local dealer to see if their model is included.

    Arctic Cat Mountain Cat Snowmobiles '99

    Arctic Cat has issued a recall for 1999 Model Year Mountain Cats for the stock soft mountain bar. Arctic Cat has identified a possible structural flaw through product testing and says that the bar may break. Arctic Cat recommends contacting your local dealer to see if your model is affected.

    Arctic Cat Snowmobiles '98
    98 Arctic Cat 600cc Engine Recall

    Arctic Cat, Inc. has sent out recall notices to most owners of 1998 Arctic Cat 600cc twin snowmobiles regarding engine failures due to a faulty piston and cylinder combination. Arctic Cat has identified the serial number range of the affected engines and is taking the necessary steps to ensure these machines will are repaired. Arctic Cat will be replacing, (at no charge to the customer), the engine's pistons and cylinders and extending the warranty an additional year on these parts. Arctic Cat dealers were to start receiving the replacement parts in mid August '99. Owners of the recalled machines were instructed to contact an authorized dealer of their choice to make an appointment for repairs. In turn, the dealer will make the required repairs and process the warranty claim with Arctic Cat. If you own a 1998 600cc Arctic Cat snowmobile and have not received a recall notice, you are encouraged to contact Arctic Cat, Inc., to verify your serial number is not one of the affected models. Arctic Cat can be reached at (218) 681-8558.

    Subject: Re: AC skid frame

    I found that just untensioning the torsion springs to be the trick for getting the rear holes to line up. Cat makes it harder than Polaris, in that you have to remove the long screw, which also goes through the inner idler wheel assembly. t's not much of a pain, considering how hard those holes are to line up, with the springs still tensioned.
    I remove the torsion springs too but I also cut a channel in the top of the pastic piece that the spring goes through. Then all I need to do is to lift the spring out of the channel to remove tension and I don't need to touch the bolts.

    Arctic Cat ZRT800 & THUNDERCAT '00

    Arctic Cat, Inc. has issued a recall for the 2000 ZRT 800 and Thundercat to lengthen the impulse line. The impulse line is a length of hose connecting the crankcase to the fuel pump. Arctic Cat has identified a problem with the current length in whi ch the impulse line can become kinked or pinched. Arctic Cat recommends contacting your local dealer to schedule repairs.

    Arctic Cat ZRT800 '99 BULLETIN

    Arctic Cat, Inc. has issued a service bulletin for the 1999 ZRT 800 for performance related issues. Update #637-193 provides correction for the factory setup of the sled and includes: Carburetor jets, needles and slides; clutching components including weights and springs; and a new muffler. Arctic Cat will also extend the engine warranty by one year. Arctic Cat recommends contacting your local dealer for details and update scheduling.

    ARCTIC CAT CUSTOMER SERVICE:
    (800) 210-5941


    Arctic Cat Snowmobiles '98
    98 Arctic Cat 600cc Engine Recall

    Arctic Cat, Inc. has sent out recall notices to most owners of 1998 Arctic Cat 600cc twin snowmobiles regarding engine failures due to a faulty piston and cylinder combination. Arctic Cat has identified the serial number range of the affected engines and is taking the necessary steps to ensure these machines will are repaired. Arctic Cat will be replacing, (at no charge to the customer), the engine's pistons and cylinders and extending the warranty an additional year on these parts. Arctic Cat dealers were to start receiving the replacement parts in mid August '99. Owners of the recalled machines were instructed to contact an authorized dealer of their choice to make an appointment for repairs. In turn, the dealer will make the required repairs and process the warranty claim with Arctic Cat. If you own a 1998 600cc Arctic Cat snowmobile and have not received a recall notice, you are encouraged to contact Arctic Cat, Inc., to verify your serial number is not one of the affected models. Arctic Cat can be reached at (218) 681-8558.



    That's about it for the pasting of postings on the two forums I've been on. As mentionedbefore it's for information only and not who's it's from, although I might have missed a few posting and not edited out any names, which is a minor thing. Also as you read not all of the posts are in order, but hopefully you got some ideas.



    Email Karl.

    Back to Projects (Karl's) page


    [karl's home direction]